Light-reflecting make-up has always been associated with the party season (which is fast approaching) but this year the shimmer and shine comes with an added dose of creativity: good news for anyone enjoying the thrill of a more experimental make-up routine this year. A glittering gold eyelid always feels right come December, but now there's a whole spectrum of hues to dive into.
The spring/summer 2023 runways served up several fresh ways to embrace sparkle, from the subtle to the show-stopping – and trust us, there’s something to tempt every one of us away from the trusty matte neutrals.
"It’s all about using without caution, isn't it?" says Dame Pat McGrath: on-brand words from the queen of couture impact. But even a magpie like McGrath appreciates the power of subtlety: sometimes, a restrained flick of liner or touch of translucent shimmer can take a look up a notch without stealing focus. “Incorporating sparkle is similar to accessorising your look with jewels. Do you desire to make a statement or a subtle accent?” she asks.
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Those who fall into the latter camp will find encouragement in the fact that even the fashion circuit’s most minimalist designers embraced a touch of shimmer this season. At The Row, McGrath brought a lighter, more feminine feel to the design duo’s impeccable tailoring with a warm, translucent taupe twinkle over the eyes, while precisely placed flashes of gold dominated the blockbuster shows, with everyone from Giorgio Armani to Dries Van Noten employing a hint of molten metallic.
Away from the runways, the A-list are continuing to showcase the joy of statement make-up: Cynthia Erivo is frequently bookmarked for her striking metallic looks, while Naomi Campbell remains the queen of the high-impact eye.
Here, see all the inspiration you need to inspire your festive party looks this season.
Keep it in neutral
"For a subtle sparkle, use a shade complimentary to your skin tone for a natural gleam on the eyelids or the brow bone," says McGrath. "For a more subversive lustre, use a silky matte to sculpt the natural contours of the eye and layer a gleaming metallic on the lid for that major megawatt shine."
Simply choose a warm taupe or peach eyeshadow packed with finely milled sparkle and press onto clean lids with the pad of your finger. “You can do it with a brush, but your finger is fine – just swipe over the whole lid. It’s just dressing the eye, like an accessory: you don’t have to be ultra-skilled to do this,” says McGrath. Complete the look with clean skin and a clear lip gloss (yes, it’s back in a big way).
Draw a line
Shimmer and shine can be used sparingly while still making an impact: a sparkling flash of liner makes a modern nod to the trend. Keeping the rest of the eyelid clean, a striking slash of cobalt or emerald green can completely change the feel of a party look, offering an edgy alternative to classic glam. “Simply take a liner brush and sweep along the lash line,” advises McGrath.
Subtle enhancement
Sometimes, less really is more – even when we're talking about party-ready make-up. Much easier than mastering that multi-shade smoky eye, a simple swipe of silver or gold, placed at the inner corners, is all you need.
A soft kohl pencil or well-pigmented powder shadow will deliver the right effect, but for extra impact there's a smart tool in McGrath’s own line. The Intensifeyes Artistry Wand is a mixing liquid you can draw straight onto skin to transform any powder into a jewel-like liquid. "Put a little dot on the inner corner of your eye, take your sparkle and touch it on top. The wand grips the pigment and intensifies the colour, so you get a flash of glitter."
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Statement lip
In 2016, the postbox-red glitter lips McGrath created for Versace dominated the couture season, and is still referenced as one of the best beauty moments in runway history.
McGrath’s own Blitztrance lipstick is the simplest shortcut to embracing a shimmer lip now: the glitter-packed pigment sits as comfortably as a traditional lipstick, and can be topped up with ease throughout the night. Team with bare lids and lashings of mascara for the most impactful result.
Embrace colour
Forget what you've been told: there are no rules or restrictions when it comes to wearing colour: on the Versace SS23 runway, McGrath painted 60 girls of all skin tones in the same shade of violet, and the result was electric every time. Try a cobalt-blue against a little black dress, or use glittering green to bring new energy to tailoring. McGrath sums up the season's mood succinctly: “People aren't bogged down by too many rules anymore – we’re here to have fun."
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How to embrace sparkling make-up now - Harper's BAZAAR
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