When it comes to make-up references, we've seen them all: nature, movies, emotions... but Dior's SS23 inspiration of choice has to be one of the most unexpected. For fashion house's Spring Summer 2023 collection, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri was influenced by 16th Century Italian aristocrat Catherine de Medici, the only woman to rule France as Queen. You might think that would give Dior's make-up artist Peter Philips his starting point, but in fact Chiuri showed him a very different brief...
'It's a funny story actually. As of course the main inspiration of the collection is Medici, a very powerful woman,' Philips told ELLE UK backstage before the show. 'A Renaissance icon in France but also across the world actually. But then she showed me this picture of a girl on social media.' That girl was Stella Lucia Deopito, an Austrian model and actress who had caught Chiuri's eye.
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'She showed me a specific reference of her make-up and we agreed it could be amazing to take her as a muse. To have a historical figure for the clothes, but a girl from today, from social media, for the make-up.
'We liked the idea that it shows any woman who has confidence in what she does can be a muse,' explained Philips. 'This girl is just in her room, playing with eyeliners, but produces a very unique look. It's a great story: a girl from history and a girl from Instagram.'
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Philips adapted the crossed eyeliner from the image for the show, adapting it to suit each model with elongated shapes and blurred edges. Opting for pencils instead of eyeliner pens ('They're a little more smudgy, more rock'n'roll. A pen was too sixties.') he used a kohl liner for the circles around the eyes and a thinner pencil for the details. After smudging a bit, he used a thin Q-tip to 'slice off the edges, and make them sharper. It's easier doing it this way than trying to draw it on perfectly. It's much faster and more efficient.'
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The skin was prepped simply with serum, given a light wash of foundation, and a little concealer if needed. Eyeshadow (from a palette created especially for the show) gave a light pearlescent finish. 'Maria Grazia likes nude make-up,' Philips added, 'so the palette reflects that, with options for all skin tones.' Lips were finished with a soft swatch of lipstick, pressed on more like a stain.
Get The Look: Dior SS23 Make-Up
For the hair, stylist and long term Dior collaborator, Guido Palau, was shown the same image by Chiuri, so most models were sporting low school girl-style pigtails, with a grungy feel to them.
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Although a strong look, Philips tells us that one of his biggest challenges of his job is that Maria Grazia 'doesn't really like to see much of the make-up,' so finding that balance between runway ready and subtlety was key. And, of course, balancing the 16th century and 21st century references, surely a first for any make-up artist in history.
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September 28, 2022 at 10:39PM
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At Dior SS23 The Make-Up Was A 16th-Century-Meets-Social-Media Mash-Up - ELLE
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