Born in Naples, Pica says she never imagined a career in the beauty industry. “I was always interested in make-up, [but I ] never really understood how it could be a career path.”
Chanel Palette Essentielle, developed by Lucia Pica, is a beauty staple for the brand.
She was in her 20s and on a trip to London when she realised that there were make-up artists making a living from their art. If she was to pursue that route, she quickly realised, she would have to up sticks. “I knew I’d need to move somewhere bigger, you know – Milan or London, somewhere where that exciting energy is, a really creative place.”
In London she trained at the Greasepoint make-up Academy before landing a coveted gig as assistant to Charlotte Tilbury, one of the world’s best-known backstage make-up artists and now part owner of her eponymous billion-dollar brand (thanks to a recent acquisition by Spanish fashion and fragrance giant Puig).
There is a lot of value in real experts. I spent a long time assisting, learning, training. It took me nine years to get a Vogue shoot.
— Lucia Pica
“I had a friend who had this idea for me to pursue fashion and she was so right, it was a perfect fit,” says Pica.
Scoring a role alongside Tilbury was life-changing. "It was 28 shows a season, working at the speed of light with the best in the industry," she says of those days. Models would arrive just minutes before stepping onto the catwalk, requiring a near-miracle to get runway-ready. "You think faster; you're constantly solving problems."
Backstage early in Pica's career, at New York Fashion Week in 2010. Getty
After her stint with Tilbury, Pica freelanced for 10 years, including at Chanel. When Peter Phillips, the brand’s former make-up director, left for Dior in 2013, Pica was selected as his successor. She is responsible for the brand’s runway looks, and also for product development. She chooses the colour palettes, for example, for Chanel’s cosmetics, and works with the research and development team to create new products.
In the hotly contested world of beauty, it's an incredibly influential role.
Pica, who is active on Instagram, likes the idea of being inspired by the medium, but is dismissive of beauty influencers who haven’t done their homework. “Social media, you know… it sort of becomes that everybody is a photographer, everybody is a make-up artist. There is a lot of value in real experts,” she says. “I spent a long time assisting, learning, training. It took me nine years to get a Vogue shoot. It’s not just the make-up, it’s creating a look that will pop in the picture, that will get the right angles.
Chanel creative director Virginie Viard. "We are like an old married couple," says Lucia Pica of their working relationship. AP
“What we do in fashion is about creating a world, a narrative, rather than covering flaws or contouring. They are two different worlds.”
For Chanel's colour cosmetics, Pica travels the world to find inspiration. Most recently, she looked to the Namibian desert, where brick-brown shades and vivid sunsets offered food for thought. One of the resulting products, Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint, is a highly fluid liquid packed with pigment which acts as an "undetectable veil" for the face, she says.
Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint, mixed by hand by the wearer before use, acts as an "undetectable veil" for the face, says Lucia Pica.
Mostly water, it is mixed by hand by the wearer just before application for a dewy, healthy glow. The research and development team took three years to perfect the formula, which was based on one of their skincare serums. It's an example, Pica says, of the Chanel mentality at large.
"We do not follow trends. We go for our own ride. People like to be surprised by us, so that is what we do, surprise them."
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Meet the woman in charge of creating Chanel's make-up - The Australian Financial Review
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