Make-up is a big part of how we present ourselves to the world. Maybe you choose lipstick to feel glamorous or foundation to garner confidence, but in Erdem’s autumn/winter 2023 show, models wore eyeliner to rebel.
“The show was inspired by Erdem’s discovery of his house once being a ‘Homes of Hope’ building for fallen women in Victorian London,” explains Jane Richardson, Nars’s global artistry director, who masterminded the looks. “It’s a reimagining of two of these fallen women having escaped and are now causing a riot in the square outside in the rain.”
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To build this strong, rebellious female character, Richardson created suitably moody make-up. “The beauty look consists of glossy, lived-in black layered eye, set against real skin,” she explained. The dewy but raw-looking skin came courtesy of Nars’s Radiant Creamy Concealer, subtly blended on the areas that needed it most, as well as the brand’s Multiple highlighting stick (in shade Copacabana) on the high points of the face.
For a smudgy stare, Richardson deployed a combination of the brand’s High Pigment Longwear Eyeliner in Via Veneto (an intense, jet black shade), Single Eyeshadow in Coconut Grove (a deep chocolate brown) and lashings of mascara, blending them together with some highlighting powder for the stained finish. It may not feel particularly wearable, but you can play with the level of smudge at home – even just a little diffusion can create a perfectly mutinous effect.
Hair was a similarly undone affair, and hairstylist Anthony Turner conjured up a suitable style for these defiant Victorian women. “It’s meant to depict a hairstyle that was once perfectly done but is now undone and rained on,” he says. “I used Olaplex’s No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum – which is great for promoting shine and heat damage protection – on damp hair, then we blow dried into a centre parting.”
Once dry, he used No.9 again to amp up shine and promote a wet look. After tying the hair into a low ponytail – befitting of the era – he then pulled pieces of hair out and spritzed with water.
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February 19, 2023 at 11:16PM
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Erdem’s Lived-In Eyeliner Is Make-Up To “Cause A Riot In” - British Vogue
"make up" - Google News
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