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Heroic Liner Is The Runway-Ready Make-Up Trend Setting The Tone For AW23 - ELLE

Flared kohl wings and thickly inked lash lines have long been making a comeback in the beauty universe. Last year's AW22 runway saw the likes of Versace, Saint Laurent and Christian Cowan all sidelining their perfectly powdered celestial eye looks in favour of a theatrical, undone and densely-packed kajal take on classic feline flicks. It was all very 'à la Julia Fox'.

Fast forward 365 days and Men's Fashion Week AW23 has called for the official death of the clean girl. That's right, we're going back to black with the help of a supervillain-approved eyeliner ensemble we're coining: 'Heroic Liner'.

Leaning into the drama, 'Heroic Liner' relies on structured, graphic batwing shapes and intentional windows of negative space; an eyeshadow mask, no less. From light-handed lenses to full on blacked-out combat mode lids, Juun.J, Kenzo and Rains have all tapped into the statement trend via the medium of pencil, gel and pen. And here we are struggling to get our cat eyes straight.

heroic lines eyeliner trend

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Winning the award for most architectural eyeliner is Juun.J by a mile. Blocky triangular frames, pitch black liner and a generously free lid? Say no more. 'The theme of the collection is "Broken" so we wanted to give a modern punk rock feel with a slightly futuristic twist,' key make-up artist Jenny Coombes told ELLE UK. 'We wanted to give the liner a bit of an edge, so it became less of a traditional look.'

Coombes explains that a clean waterline opens up the eye, allowing it to appear completely unique depending on your eye shape. 'This style looks different on every eye shape, contributing to the girls looking more individual,' she explains, pointing out that larger lids have a full capacity for negative space. 'For those with a smaller eyelid, it creates an optical illusion when they blink which is quite fun.'

rains menswear fall winter 2023

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If you're looking to trial the exaggerated liner look at home, we recommend not jumping the gun, as the road to the finished product is pretty intricate. 'The key is to stencil out the shape first, keeping the line work above and below the eye straight, then joining up on the inner and outer corners,' Coombes explains.

'When applying, it’s best to look straight ahead (in the mirror when applying on yourself) and beginning the negative space on the eyelid just above the eyelid crease (or slightly higher if eyelid is thin).'

Next, the fun part: it's time to get colouring. 'You can close your eye to fill in the liner and perfect the oval-shaped negative space on the lid. My hero product was Chanel’s Calligraphie de Chanel, a waterproof gel liner which allows enough time to refine before it sets, paired with My Kit Co’s 1.11 Pro My Tiny Liner brush for precision application.'

heroic lines eyeliner trend
Rains Menswear Fashion Week AW23

Imaxtree

heroic lines eyeliner trend
Rains Menswear Fashion Week AW23

Imaxtree

If you're a fan of a faster drying gel liner, Coombes suggests using a black pencil to trace the shape, followed by a liberal filling-in with your most-trusted pot formula. 'MUJI’s thin cotton buds dipped in micellar water are the best for sharpening the lines and negative space, and finally a light dusting of translucent powder over the eyelid to prevent any liner from dropping.'

Over at Rains, the smoke show continued with its self-titled 'Hero Eyes'. Key make-up artist Min Kim described the inspiration behind the diffused bandit liner on her Instagram post-show, stating: 'For AW23, Rains shields the hero. Owners of spaces void of green screens - the universe deep within. The unsung ones behind masks of everyday life. Harnessing power to stand in authenticity. For self. For all.'

If, like us, buffing eyeshadow brow high feels a little daring for day-to-day, let us nudge you towards Kenzo's more delicate approach to the eye-framing trend.

heroic lines eyeliner trend
Kenzo Menswear Fashion Week AW23

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heroic lines eyeliner trend
Kenzo Menswear Fashion Week AW23

Imaxtree

Opting for a fine and precise application, make-up artist Lucy Bridge traced a single looped silhouette around models' full eyes. The result? Wide-eyed and incredibly sixties eyeliner. Is this not the Twiggy comeback we've been dying for?

Whether you're playing it safe with Kenzo's doe-eyed inner corner or veering towards your full Harley Quinn alter ego, Menswear Fashion Week is giving you a free pass to layer your liner and send those wings soaring for AW23.

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Heroic Liner Is The Runway-Ready Make-Up Trend Setting The Tone For AW23 - ELLE
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